I have been fortunate enough to visit El Pinacate Biosphere Reserve on several occasions; all of them in the summertime when the intense heat might be a deterrent for some visitors, yet despite the high temperatures the opportunity to explore new corners of the biosphere reserve enraptures me every single time. La Reserva de la Biosfera El Pinacate y Gran Desierto de Altar (El Pinacate hereinafter) is located in Northwestern Sonora, Mexico. Mexican Federal Highway 2, only a few meters from the U.S.-Mexico border, defines the northern boundary of the 714,566 hectare natural protected area. El Pinacate in Mexico along with Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument and Cabeza Prieta National Wildlife Refuge in Southwestern Arizona protect a huge area of the Sonoran Desert at a binational scale.
El Pinacate was established in 1993 by the Mexican federal government; although, the land is privately owned by several ejidatarios. Since its establishment it has acquired international recognition by being included in UNESCO’s World Network of Biosphere Reserves, part of the Man and Biosphere Program, and in 2013 it was inscribed on the list of World Heritage Sites. Additionally, 39 hectares of the Rio Sonoyta, the Agua Dulce reach, are included on the Ramsar Convention’s (The Convention on Wetlands) List of Wetlands of International Importance.
The beautifully built Schuk Toak visitor’s center is a good place to start your visit at El Pinacate. The visitor center offers interactive displays were you can learn about the geology of the area, its biodiversity, as well as learn about the ancient inhabitants and their cosmology. Personally, it was very interesting to learn about Juan Carvajales, the last ‘pinacateño’ who lived on the land in the early 20th century. You can also learn about the ancient salt trails. The salt trails are ancient trading routes from tinaja to tinaja (natural water catchments) created thousands of years ago by the native inhabitants to collect salt near the ocean. Certain areas at El Pinacate are considered sacred to the descendants of those ancient people, the Hia Ced O’odham and Tohono O’odham, who now reside outside the Reserve in Sonora and in Arizona.
The otherworldly landscape at El Pinacate composed of a volcanic shield with its black and red lava flows, giant craters, cinder cones, and an extensive sea of sand dunes is beautiful and even magical. The difficult terrain means that exploring the area takes time, a high clearance vehicle, and proper equipment are necessary; although, passenger vehicles can travel on the well maintained 72 kilometer (approximately 45 miles) visitor’s route. The visitor’s route is a loop where one can stop at several interpretive stations along the way to learn about different aspects of the Reserve and enjoy the extraordinary views from the edge of El Elegante and Cerro Colorado craters.
El Pinacate’s location is within the boundaries of the Lower Colorado Subdivision of the Sonoran Desert, which is the hottest and driest subdivision, yet despite the harsh conditions El Pinacate’s biodiversity is impressive. The recorded number of species includes more than 540 vascular plants, 44 mammals, 40 reptiles, 5 amphibians, more than 200 birds, and 2 native fish species.
El Pinacate is home to endangered species such as the Sonoran pronghorn, Sonoyta pupfish, longfin dace, and the largest maternity colony of lesser long-nosed bats which were classified as endangered in Mexico until recently and whose current endangered status in the United States is being reviewed. A lava tube in the volcanic shield houses the maternity colony. The place is not open to the public, but I have been lucky to have had the opportunity to accompany American and Mexican biologists on nights set aside for bat exit counts. Witnessing thousands and thousands of bats exiting the cave on their way to foraging grounds is an amazing experience that alerts all the senses.
Other species of common concern between the U.S. and Mexico but with differing threatened or endangered status include the flat-tailed horned lizard and the Sonoran desert tortoise. During my most recent trip to El Pinacate, my companions and I came across a pair of desert bighorn sheep as we were hiking in the evening towards a tinaja to conduct a bat monitoring survey. Lesser long-nosed bats aren’t the only bat species present at El Pinacate and we were fortunate enough to see some of the other species.
El Pinacate is named after the common stink beetle or pinacate found throughout the region; I can only imagine the diversity of insects that call El Pinacate home. El Pinacate is a fascinating place that beckons further exploration. I hope to go back in the winter so that I can hike to the top of the highest mountain to get a bird’s eye view of the majestic landscape.
Sources where you can obtain more detailed information:
Reserva de la Biosfera El Pinacate y Gran Desierto de Altar
http://www.elpinacate.conanp.gob.mx
UNESCO’s Man and the Biosphere Programme
UNESCO’s World Heritage Center
http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/
Ramsar Convention
BorderlandsWanderlust 